A Glossary of Sewing Terms & Techniques

Julie Robertson
Nov 17, 2022
8 min read

Updated: Sep 26, 2025

When I first started sewing, I remember staring at a pattern that told me to “staystitch along the bias” and wondering if I'd accidentally picked up instructions in another language. The words were there, but they didn't make sense. Over time, I learned that sewing has its own way of speaking — a mix of old traditions and practical shorthand — and once I started picking up those terms, everything clicked into place.

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Check back from time to time; this is a living list that will be updated regularly.

Updated September 2025

Whether you’re just threading your first needle or already comfortable at your sewing machine, you’ll quickly notice that sewing comes with its own special language. Words like baste, bias, or selvedge might initially sound confusing, but once you know what they mean, they’ll unlock a whole new level of confidence in your sewing journey.

This glossary of sewing terms and techniques is here to be your handy reference. Use it whenever you encounter a word you’re unsure about, or as a quick refresher before trying a new skill. The more familiar you get with this vocabulary, the easier it will be to follow patterns, tutorials, and instructions — and the more fun sewing becomes.

Think of it as your sewing dictionary: clear, simple, and right at your fingertips whenever you need it.

APPLIQUÉ: Sewing a piece of fabric onto another fabric to create a design. Often used for decorative quilts, clothing, or home projects.

BACKSTITCH: The purpose of back-stitching is to secure your stitching line. To do this, stitch forward a few stitches then, using the reverse function on your machine, stitch back over them. Continue stitching forward.

BAR TACK: A small row of narrow zig-zag stitches to reinforce or keep a facing in place. They are used on a jeans fly, jeans belt loops, and buttonholes.

BASTE: To sew long loose stitches onto the fabric in order to hold something in place temporarily, trace a stitching line, or show direction of the fabric.

BIAS: Bias refers to the diagonal direction of a piece of fabric, drawn at an exact 45-degree angle to the selvedge or grain line. Woven fabric has the greatest amount of stretch in this direction even when it is a non-stretch fabric.

BIAS BINDING: Strips of fabric cut on a 45-degree angle to the selvage. In this direction, the fabric is stretchy and it adjusts well to curves, making it a great finish for necklines, (curved) hems or armholes. The strip is used to encase the raw edge of a hem or a seam. Bias Binding can be used to bind quilts or small projects like pot holders.

BEESWAX: Beeswax is used to coat thread for hand sewing. You can do this yourself by pulling the thread over a block of beeswax a couple of times and then run it through your fingers to set the wax and remove the excess beeswax. It should make a squeaky sound if you pull it between your fingers. Alternatively, you can buy thread conditioner or a pre-coated thread.

BLANKET STITCH: A decorative edge stitch that loops over the fabric edge. Commonly used to finish blankets, appliqué, or raw edges attractively.

BOBBIN: A small spool of thread that goes into your sewing machine to supply the bottom thread in your stitches. It's loaded into the bobbin case and then inserted into your sewing machine.

The bobbin case is often specific to your sewing machine, be careful not to use bobbins from a different machine.

CUT ON FOLD: When a pattern tells you that you need to cut a pattern piece on fold, it means you need to align that edge of the pattern to the folded edge of your fabric. That way you only have to cut out half of the pattern piece, but when you unfold the fabric you have a full symmetrical piece of your sewing project.

EDGESTITCH: A line of stitching ⅛" (3mm) away from the folded or edge or seam line.

FAT EIGHTH (FAT ⅛): A Fat Eighth is a piece of fabric cut 9" x 21".

FAT QUARTER (FAT ¼): A Fat Quarter is a piece of fabric cut 18" (45.7cm) off the end of the bolt, and then cut in half on the fold. Four of these put together still make up 1 yard of fabric.

FEED DOGS: The feed dogs are the teeth that transport the fabric through your sewing machine. They are located under the presser foot and can be dropped when you are free-motion quilting or sewing buttons onto a project using your sewing machine.

FINGER PRESS: When you use your fingers, roller, or another flat and smooth object to flatten or open a seam.

FUSIBLE INTERFACING: Using heat and pressure, fusible interfacing is permanently fused to the wrong side of fabric to add strength and structure to your project. It's often used in bag making, button bands, buttonhole areas, welt pockets, collars, cuffs, but it can also be used in entire panels. Sometimes steam is required to achieve a good bond.

GRAIN LINE: The grain line of the fabric is the direction that the fibres align along the length of the fabric. It is parallel to the selvage edge of the fabric. Usually used in garment making, it is important that pattern pieces match the grain line marked on the pattern. This will insure that it hangs correctly and does not twist.

HAND QUILTING: The process of sewing together the quilt top, batting, and backing using a needle and thread by hand rather than a sewing machine.

When to Use:

Ideal for adding decorative stitching or delicate designs.

Perfect for small projects, heirloom quilts, or when you want a personal, handcrafted touch.

Often done with a running stitch or embroidery-style stitches.

Why It’s Helpful: Hand quilting gives quilts a unique, textured look and allows for precise control over stitch placement. It’s also a relaxing, meditative way to work on your project away from the machine.

INCH: The Imperial equivalent of 2.5cm. Shown as " in patterns.

INTERFACING: Sew-in or fusible fabric used to stabilise fabrics. Can also add body, form or reinforcement. Interfacing is used in a number of Sublime Stitchery products and patterns.

LADDER STITCH: Can also be called a blind or hidden stitch. A sewing technique used for various sewing projects which keeps the stitches invisible.

MARK: Transferring pattern symbols and markings to fabric. There are many ways to do this. Using air-soluble/water-soluble or heat-erasing markers; chalk; pins or clips; a small clip with scissors within the seam allowance; dressmaker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel or tailor's tacks made with thread.

MATCHING POINTS/SEAMS: The process of carefully aligning seam lines or block intersections so they meet neatly when sewn. This gives quilts crisp corners and accurate block joins.

NEEDLE DOWN: A sewing machine setting that makes the needle stop in the down position (piercing the fabric) whenever you pause sewing. This feature is especially helpful when pivoting around corners, adjusting fabric layers, or keeping your project steady without losing your place. Some machines let you switch between “needle up” and “needle down” with the push of a button.

NESTING SEAMS: A quilting technique for matching points, where seams are pressed in opposite directions so they “lock” together, making it easier to align without bulk.

NOTCHES: Pattern marks shaped like diamonds or triangles that are printed on the cutting line of a pattern to indicate where seams should meet. Don’t cut them off your pattern pieces, trim around them.

NOTIONS: When a pattern calls for notions it’s items like ribbon, hardware, buttons, zippers, hooks, lace, elastic, etc. All the small accessories you need to finish your garment.

PINS AND SEWING CLIPS: Tools for holding fabric layers together before and during sewing. They keep pieces aligned so seams stay accurate.

When to Use:

Pins – Great for lightweight fabrics, curves, or precise placement.

Clips – Best for thick layers, bulky seams, or fabrics that shouldn’t be pierced (like vinyl, leather, or laminated cotton).

Why It’s Helpful: They prevent shifting, puckering, or mismatched seams — giving you matching points and nesting seams for a cleaner, more professional results.

PRESSING: Use an iron to press fabrics, seams and adhere interfacing. When you press fabric, you lift the iron slightly when you move, then press down - rather than pushing the iron and stretching the fabric as you do so.

PRESSING CLOTH: A light piece of fabric used to protect your fabric when pressing. Place it between the iron and your project or garment, if you don't have a steam iron you can dampen the pressing cloth for better results. Useful for delicate fabrics or avoiding the glue from interfacing.

PRESSER FOOT: It presses the foot against the feed dogs of your sewing machine while you sew.

RAW EDGE: Unfinished, cut edge of fabric.

RS: Right side.

RST: Right sides together.

RUNNING STITCH: A simple hand stitch made by passing the needle in and out of fabric in a straight line. Used for hand quilting, basting, or temporary stitching.

SCANT: A scant ¼" seam allowance is a seam allowance that is ever so slightly narrower than ¼" inch.

SCALE SQUARE: A small square printed on a pattern template that shows the correct size of the pattern when printed. Usually marked with measurements like 1" or 5 cm.

When to Use:

Always check the scale square before cutting your fabric.

Print the page with the scale square and measure it with a ruler to ensure your printer hasn’t resized the pattern.

Why It’s Helpful: Verifying the scale square ensures your pattern pieces are the correct size, so your finished project will fit and look as intended. It prevents wasted fabric and frustration from mis-sized pieces.

SEAM ALLOWANCE: The portion of the pattern edge determining the amount of excess fabric needed to stitch a particular seam to the line of stitching. A ¼" (6mm) seam allowance is included in pattern pieces and templates.

SELVEDGE: The tightly woven, finished edge of a fabric that runs along the warp threads (lengthwise), helping you identify the grain of the fabric.

When to Use:

Helps you align pattern pieces correctly along the grain.

Usually not included in seams, but can guide cutting and prevent stretching.

Why It’s Helpful: Knowing the selvedge ensures your pieces are cut on grain, giving your project the correct drape, shape, and stability.

SLIP STITCH: A nearly invisible hand stitch that catches only a small amount of fabric. Perfect for hemming or closing seams without showing stitches.

STRIP: A length of fabric cut WOF or 42" (106.5cm) selvedge to selvedge.

THREAD NEST: A messy tangle of threads that builds up on the underside of your fabric, usually right when you start sewing. It can cause uneven stitches, jams, or puckering.

How to Avoid It:

Hold your thread tails – Gently hold the top and bobbin thread tails to the back of the machine for the first few stitches.

Check threading – Rethread your top thread and bobbin if nests keep happening; even one slip can cause trouble.

Use the right tension – Incorrect upper thread tension often leads to loops and tangles underneath.

Start on fabric – Begin with your fabric fully under the presser foot (not right at the very edge).

Clean your machine – Lint or thread bits around the bobbin area can contribute to nests.

TOPSTITCH: A line of stitching that runs parallel to a fold line or a seam line. Because top stitching shows on the finished products, it is important that the stitches are even. Stitch on the RIGHT side using the fold line or seam line and your presser foot or edge stitch foot as a guide to maintain the same distance throughout the top stitching. Use a 3 - 3.5mm stitch length.

WARP: Fabric direction running from selvedge to selvedge.

WEFT: Fabric direction running along the selvedge.

WHIPSTITCH: A stitch that loops over the edge of fabric to join pieces or finish edges Useful for sewing appliqué or closing openings in stuffed projects.

WOF: Width of Fabric. The Width of Fabric is the length between each selvedge, usually measuring about 42" (112cm).

WS: Wrong side.

WST: Wrong sides together.