Needle Selection for Quilting & Sewing Projects

Selecting the right needle is essential for smooth sewing, strong seams, and professional-quality results. One of my top tips is to choose your needle type and size based on thread weight, not just fabric type. So, let's run through some various fabric types (commonly found around the Sublime Stitchery Studio) and figure out what size needle to use.

Quilt Piecing (Cotton Fabrics)

• My Go-To is Superior Threads' Topstitch needle. It has a slightly sharp point, elongated eye, and deep groove, protecting thread and resisting fraying. If you find your thread shredding, switch to this needle.

Sizing Advice:

• Use #80/12 Topstitch for standard piecing threads (e.g., MasterPiece, So Fine #50) and most cotton threads.

• For very fine threads (Kimono Silk, 60 wt), use Topstitch #70/10.

• Why? The elongated eye and deep groove protect even fine threads at high speed, while the light, sharp point keeps holes tidy in tightly woven fabrics.

Quilting (Machine Quilting, Free Motion)

• Use a Topstitch needle for quilting, most often the #90/14 size, paired with 40 wt threads like Superior Threads King Tut or Rainbows.

• Use titanium-coated Topstitch needles for longevity—they last 5–8 times longer than regular needles and minimise dullness and thread breakage.

• Why Topstitch Over Quilting Needles? Professionals use Topstitch needles almost exclusively, thanks to the eye and groove that reduce friction on thicker threads, leading to fewer skipped stitches and thread breaks.

Fusible Interfacing (Stabilisers)

• Fusibles can gum up needles, causing skipped stitches. If you notice a problem, clean or change your needle regularly.

• Use a Topstitch (80/12–90/14) or nonstick/titanium-coated needle to resist glue buildup. Change needles more frequently. Use ballpoint needles only for knits, not standard woven/quilt fabrics.

• Why? The groove and coating help keep the needle free of adhesive residue for better stitch quality.

Fusible Fleece & Foam (Bulky Projects)

• Use Topstitch #90/14 or #100/16 for thicker thread or multiple/fused layers.

• Titanium-coated Topstitch needles again shine in this context—they last longer and resist adhesive buildup.

• Alternative: For extremely thick foam or layered projects, you could use heavy-duty jeans or Universal #100/16.

Here's a summary of which needle to use for various fabric weights:

Need more fabric details? Here's a list of just about every sewing adventure you could go on with your domestic sewing machine. If there's something you think is missing, please let us know in the comments so we can all learn and benefit from our community's knowledge.

Table Legend:

*Topstitch refers to Superior Threads' Topstitch needles—my #1 choice for nearly all projects. Use titanium-coated where possible for extended life, especially with fusibles and heavy-duty sewing.

**Jeans/Denim needles are best for exceptionally thick layers and tough materials, but can be swapped for Topstitch if you need a big eye/thread groove for durability.

Notes for Less-Common Fabrics and Sewing Projects:

• Minky fabric: Use a Stretch 90/14 or Topstitch 90/14 for easier handling of plush, stretchy fibres.

• Batiks: Microtex or Topstitch 70/10 or 80/12 for the tight weave.

• Outdoor gear (nylon ripstop): Microtex 80/12 or Topstitch 80/12.

• Linen: Universal or Topstitch 80/12; linen can be prone to fraying, so a sharp needle helps.

• Sheer/organza: Microtex 60/8 for minimum holes.

• Faux fur: Use a 90/14 Universal or Topstitch, heavy-duty thread.

Metallic & Speciality Threads

Metallic and Topstitch needles are functionally identical. Use a Topstitch needle (90/14 or 100/16) for metallic, heavy, or speciality threads to benefit from the elongated, rectangular eye and deep groove.

"I quilt, make garments and the occasional zipper pouch - what do I use?"

In most home sewing studios, you only need four needle sizes: Topstitch 70, 80, 90, and 100. Let the thread guide your choice.

Titanium-coated Topstitch needles provide longer life, less frequent changes, and resistance to glue and wear (perfect for fusible projects).

Ignore the myth that titanium will harm your machine or that polyester threads will cut fabrics—the truth is in fibre strength, not fibre content.

Maintenance Tips

Change Your Needle:

• For standard needles: every project or ~8 hours of sewing.

• For titanium: every 8 projects or ~60+ hours—listen for "clunk, popping or clicking" sounds as a sign of dullness.

Watch for Issues:

• Skipped stitches, fraying, or thread breaks are signs of a dull/wrong needle.

With my Top Tips and recommendations guiding your needle strategy, I hope you'll enjoy smoother stitching, better thread protection, and more durable quilts and projects—especially when working with fusible products and speciality threads.

Final Thoughts: Your Needle Questions Matter!

Choosing the right needle can truly transform your sewing experience, whether you're piecing a delicate quilt, crafting sturdy bags, or tackling tricky fusibles. You're now equipped to get beautiful results on any project.

Ready to put these tips to use?

Share in the comments: Which fabric or project causes you the most trouble when choosing a needle—and what questions do you still have? Let’s help each other troubleshoot the tough stuff and build a stronger sewing community together!

Happy Stitching!